by Carrie Hampton - Freelance photojournalist

The Orange River is well named because even the moon shines with a golden glow. So do the surreal folded mountain ranges, the water at sunset and even the barbel fish as they are hung up to dry.

Orange is the color of harmony and this river is the perfect place to feed the soul and go with the flow. The guides on Felix Unite's four-day canoe trip were already on the path to enlightenment—not surprising, as it is historically found in the flow of a river— and their calm confidence and appealing canoe-side manner instilled total confidence.

Aged from 22 to 72, we were an unlikely bunch but found it easy to laugh when perched on a rock like Noah's Ark after the flood, or jammed between boulders like a cork in a bottle, or careening down a rapid backwards.

At one point we had a mid-stream pile-up, but as the temperature was a sweltering 30 degrees plus, a swim aided by the current was not unpleasant. 

Reunited with our canoes, we drifted gently to a scenic spot for lunch which was concocted in a flash from the traveling salesman-style guide boat piled high with food containers, pots and pans, kettle, table and all sorts of goodies.

Out of this Pandora's box, the crew produced the most amazing culinary delights. We feasted on delectable nibbles, crunchy salads, gourmet dinners and a last-night specialty of tender roast lamb, sweet honey and raisin butternut and baked potatoes.

A hike up a rocky hill had us collecting fluorspar stones. Thrown into the fire, they exploded in a blue and purple fireworks display setting the scene for feasting, brandy, stories and song.

Not one sweet wrapper, banana skin or cigarette butt was discarded thoughtlessly - it all came back with us. The company's adherence to the eco-tourism motto "take only photographs, leave only footprints" is rigorous and commendable.

A portable toilet was even carried (I never knew where) and each evening it was placed like a throne in a spot with the most magnificent view. If someone disappeared and seemed to take forever, you knew that the "loo" with a view had them mesmerized.

The scenery is breathtaking, the bird life prolific and the paddling exciting. Take friends and make friends, just do this trip if you possibly can.

You may find, as I did, that you never want to leave the banks of the Orange. And you will undoubtedly want to return.

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Published in November 28, 1998 issue of Travel '98, 
a Weekend Argus supplement

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